When two powerhouses of fashion and culture collide, such as Vogue and Chanel, we see some truly stunning creations. 

The coming together of these two goliaths of the fashion world is what you’ll find in a new epic volume, Chanel in Vogue, published by Thames and Hudson. 

For photographers, it is of course the photography that is the big draw here – and there are some massive names on display here – but as an overall volume, it is also filled with beautiful illustrations and fascinating essays too. 

Black and white image, woman wearing a long black dress sits with her back to the camera
A black lace peplum and collar elevate an otherwise unadorned chiffon evening dress. Vogue, 1 April 1939, Andre Durst, Vogue © Conde-Nast

The co-author of the book, fashion historian Rebecca C. Tuite says, “To consider Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel’s presence in Vogue’s pages is to reflect on the parallel and entwined histories of two defining powers in twentieth-century fashion. Vogue and Chanel came of age together, with a remarkable synchronicity to their development.”

Arthur Elgort, Vogue, Conde Nast. Reproduction Vogue France Les Publications © Conde Nast
Arthur Elgort, Vogue, Conde Nast. Reproduction Vogue France Les Publications © Conde Nast

It was Vogue who talent-spotted the work of a young Chanel back in the 1910s, with the magazine continuing to report on and work with the designer throughout her life and beyond. From 1983, when the fashion house was headed by Karl Lagerfeld, it continued to be one of the biggest influences in the publication. 

Cindy Crawford photographed by Irving Penn. Vogue, April 1988. Irving Penn © Conde Nast

The book is split into two volumes. The first looks at Gabrielle Chanel herself, with the second focusing on her successors, Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard, right up to the present day. 

Gabrielle Chanel photographed on the mirrored staircase at 31 rue Cambon by Cecil Beaton in 1965. Cecil Beaton. Vogue ©Conde Nast
Gabrielle Chanel photographed on the mirrored staircase at 31 rue Cambon by Cecil Beaton in 1965. Cecil Beaton. Vogue ©Conde Nast

Across the two volumes, there’s work by some of the most prominent and important photographers of the past 100 years, including Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn, Helmut Newton, Peter Lindbergh, Ellen von Unwerth, Annie Leibovitz and more. 

Ilka Chase photographed by Charles Sheeler. Vogue, 15 August 1927, Charles Sheeler. ©Conde Nast

This is a book you can really delve into and it stands up well to repeated readings. If you’re into fashion and portrait photography, there’s bound to be something here to interest you. From my point of view as a magazine writer, I found the evolution of such an iconic publication to be of interest, too.

Ines de la Fressange photographed by Horst P. Horst, Vogue. Paris, March, 1985.
Ines de la Fressange photographed by Horst P. Horst, Vogue. Paris, March, 1985.

Chanel in Vogue is published by Thames and Hudson and is available to buy now. ISBN: 9780500025772

Linda Spierings photographed by Irving Penn. Vogue, October 1985, Irving Penn. Vogue ©Conde Nast.
Nicole Kidman photographed by Irving Penn, Vogue May, 2004
Nicole Kidman photographed by Irving Penn, Vogue May, 2004
Photograph by Horst P. Horst. Unpublished outtake from shoot for Vogue, 1 July 1939 US. Horst P. Horst Vogue ©Conde Nast.
Photograph by Horst P. Horst. Unpublished outtake from shoot for Vogue, 1 July, 1939, US. Horst P. Horst Vogue ©Conde Nast.
Stella Tennant with Warren Elgort Matthew Avedon and Ansel Elgort photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue June 2001.
Stella Tennant with Warren Elgort Matthew Avedon and Ansel Elgort photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue June 2001.
The-editorial-staff-of-American-Vogue-based-in-New-York-City-Nickolas-Muray-Conde-Nast-Archive
The editorial staff of American Vogue based in New York City, Nickolas Muray ©Conde Nast Archive

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